Most brewers will agree: A good pilsner, with its brisk, subtle flavors, brilliant clarity, and crisp, snappy bitterness, is extremely tough to make. The globally adored style of lager, which was invented in the Bohemian city of Pilsen (now in the Czech Republic) in 1842, is known and celebrated for its stripped-down nature — a fundamental abnegation of superfluity that, during production, leaves little room for even the slightest misstep. It’s an exercise in technique and precision.

“No frills, no gimmicks — pilsners truly showcase the skill of the brewer,” says Madeleine McCarthy, a brewer at Von Ebert Brewing’s Glendoveer location in Portland, Ore., which produces a variety of pilsners. (At the time of writing, its taproom has four on draft.) “From the choice of raw materials, to water profile adjustments, to multiple enzyme rests, and fermentation temperatures, pilsners are intimately crafted love letters to your senses.”